A tasting with Randall Grahm (2/5/10)

"These days you have one shot to tell your story, make sure it is a good one."

Randall Grahm swung into UC Davis Friday on his Been Doon So Long book tour and held a private tasting with V&E students and one random guy lucky enough to sneak in. A few of his musings are listed below followed by notes from the tasting.

"Welcome to my nightmare" was how Randall Gram opened the show. Grahm was especially candid and spoke for a majority of his time about the hypocrisy of preaching the values of terroir and biodynamics while running a 450,000 cs/year winery, dealing with 70+ different growers who had no interest in organic or biodynamic farming and ultimately how great it was to shrink Bonny Doon to about 35,000 cs/year. I found it refreshing to hear Grahm reflect openly about his personal and business related shortcomings.

Specifically talking about embracing biodynamics and natural winemaking, "biodynamics is about reforming yourself, not the vineyard". When asked about being an industry trendsetter, "David Bruce did most of the things I was doing 10 years before me."

On the Parkerization of wine:

"Homogeneity in the wine business is self-correcting and terroir is the answer" followed by "you know, people who think of oak as a primary flavor in wine are the ones who view ketchup as a vegetable"

And my favorite quote from the night, beautiful in its simplicity,

"An original wine brings infinite joy and richness to the world"

2008 Ca Del Solo Albarino

Overview: Soledad. 75% Albarino with 21% Loureiro and 4% Treixadura . Biodynamic, no acid adjustments, no added enzymes or yeasts but a small pH adjustment. 12.8% alcohol.

Notes: Grapefruit richness and tangerine cream with hints of bay leaf. “Whatever minerality is, this wine has it” – R.G.

2007 Cigare Blanc

Overview: 2/3 Roussane, 1/3 Grenache Blanc. Arroyo Seco AVA, Beeswax vineyard. 14.5% alcohol. Vines are irrigated in the center of the row in diamond patterns to promote root growth.

Notes: Bright beeswax citrus, rich and lightly minty, creamy, quince, pear skin.Needed food, a delicious wine.

2008 Vin Gris de Cigare

Overview: Blend of 58% Grenache, 18%cinsault, 7% Mourvdre, 4% syrah, 3% Grenache blanc. Alcohol 13.6%

Notes: Strawberry perfume, rhubarb, hint of terragon, slightly creamy.

2006 Syrah Le Pousseur

Overview: 96% Syrah, 4% Grenache, Alcohol 13%, Central Coast AVA

Notes: Beautifully fragrant and pointed on the nose. Gamey with thick tannins that relax nicely on the palate, High acid, tart cherries and blueberries, long finish. Reminiscent of Pic Saint Loup.

2005 Le Cigare Volant Rouge

Overview: 50% Grenache, 24% Mourvedre, 22% Syrah, 3% Carignane, 1% Cinsault. Lees from the previous vintage are conserved and stirred in with this year’s to add to the silkiness on the palate, no racking. Alcohol 13.5%

Notes: Closed on the nose, silky tannins, thick and rich dark fruits, velvety. Could have used a good decanting.

2008 Vinferno

Overview: 50% Grenache blanc, 50% Roussane. Grapes dried in the vineyard for two weeks. Brix pushed from 24 to about 36.

Notes: Honeycomb and guava fruits. Thick and unctuous. Great length and wonderful acidity. Palate coating deliciousness.